The Best Climbing Routes for Beginners and Intermediates in El Salto, Nuevo León (Monterrey)
- El Salto Team
- Feb 18
- 4 min read
Updated: Feb 19
If you're looking for where to climb in Monterrey and have heard about El Salto, you might associate it with high-level routes and demanding climbing. However, this impressive destination has much more to offer, even for those who are just starting out in climbing or have an intermediate level. In this article, we’ll show you some of the best beginner-friendly and intermediate routes in El Salto, so you can fully enjoy this spectacular place, no matter your experience level.
Easy and Classic Routes for Beginners in El Salto
El Culo de Merlín - 5.10b
Crag: La Cueva del Tecolote
A unique route that takes you through a natural tunnel in the rock, finishing in a chimney, combining elements of caving with climbing. Perfect for those looking for a different experience and accessible for climbers who have already tackled some 5.10 routes.
Photo: Lucas Tarufe on Culo de Merlín
Floyd El Rosa - 5.9
Crag: La Psicodelia
This is an ideal route for adventurous beginners. Although it's a 5.9 climb, it gives you the opportunity to experience a roof with tufas—something rare for routes at this grade.
Video: Floyd El Rosa 5.9
Nalgas Perfectas - 5.10b
Crag: Inicios
An introduction to tufa climbing that is accessible yet challenging. With physical moves and an appealing sector, this route gives you a taste of what’s to come on the more advanced climbs in the "La Boca" sector.
Trufa Negra - 5.10d
Crag: La Psicodelia
Para quienes buscan un reto mayor, esta ruta te lleva por enormes tufas que requieren movimientos tridimensionales. Aunque es más técnica que las anteriores, sigue siendo una opción viable para escaladores intermedios.
Rutas Imperdibles para Escaladores Intermedios en El Salto
El Camino del Seas Cabrón (5.11a)
Rock Mi Nice (5.11a)
Siguiendo una Estrella (5.11a)
Ubuntu (5.11b)
De la Banda, Pa’ la Banda (5.11b)
Ubicación: Nebulosidad
Estas cinco rutas son ideales para escaladores intermedios que buscan desafiarse en placas verticales con crimps constantes y una ligera inclinación. Además, las vistas desde Nebulosidad son de las mejores de El Salto.
Photo: Enrique Almaraz at "Nebulosidad"
Street Fighter - (5.11b)
Crag: Las Maquinitas
A varied route that combines a cave halfway up with technical chimney moves. Its diversity and beauty make it one of the favorites in El Salto, even among advanced climbers.
Ponarchy - (5.11b)
Crag: La Quintaessentia
With a pronounced overhang, this route offers a 3D climbing experience on massive tufas. An excellent option for intermediate climbers looking to improve their skills on this type of formation.
Arête de Pureé - (5.11c)
Crag: Carinos
A route that follows a compression arete with technical yet very fun moves—a gem of this sector, with an impressive view at the top.
Sexy Thing - (5.11b)
Crag: La Sabrosa
A long and spectacular route that starts with a vertical wall and continues with a 35-meter overhang. Perfect for those with experience on long routes looking for a challenge in endurance and technique.
Sabrosita Redtail - (5.11c)
Crag: La Sabrosa
The twin sister of "Sexy Thing," featuring tufas that will make you work for every move. Ideal for those looking for a more challenging climb within the same sector.
Alien Tufa - (5.11c)
Crag: Las Ánimas
One of the most popular routes in El Salto. Although there's always a line, it's worth it for its long, sustained tufas that demand endurance. Remember to brush it after climbing to keep the route in good condition.
Tu Felicidad - (5.11c)
Crag: Cueva del Tecolote
Although short, this route features intense bouldery moves and takes you through tufas in a cave, making it a unique and challenging climb.
Tufezcohuite (5.11c)
Crag: La Psicodelia
Another excellent route to practice tufa climbing, with several good rests between sustained sections that will challenge your endurance.
La Cumpleañera (5.11d)
Crag: La Palma
Short but demanding, this route requires endurance from the start. It's a classic and favorite option in its sector.
Tecolotito (5.11d)
Crag: La Boca
A long 30-meter route that captures the essence of La Boca, with technical moves and holds that will keep you focused until the very end.
Pac-Mac (5.11d)
Crag: Las Maquinitas
A route with everything: a dynamic start, roofs, cracks, tufas, and a long finish that will test all your skills. A gem you can’t miss.
Archivos Secretos del Vaticano EXT (5.11d)
Crag: Jardín Secreto
It starts with a technical slab and crimps, then transitions into an overhang with tufas that require equal parts endurance and technique.
Body Grooving (5.11d)
Crag: Las Ánimas
Long tufas with bouldery moves and endurance climbing. A route that will push you to give your best in every section.
Media Viruela de Gallina (5.11d)
Crag: La Palma
Variety in a single route: crimps, pockets, a cave halfway up, and an exciting finish. A complete experience for intermediate climbers.
Although El Salto is famous for its advanced routes, there are plenty of options for beginner and intermediate climbers. From technical slab routes to chimney adventures and tufa climbing, El Salto has something for everyone. If you're wondering where the best place to climb in Mexico is, there's no doubt that El Salto should be on your list—even if you're just starting or at an intermediate level. Don't be intimidated and get ready to explore everything this incredible destination has to offer!
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